Sample Feature Article

Mexico, Morelia Style
By Nancy Casey

Many Californians think that Mexico is just about Baja California — Tijuana, San Felipe or Ensenada — to be exact. But the heart and soul of Mexico can be found more readily the further south you go, far from the not-so-great border towns that mostly just give the country a bad rap, deep into the interior to the lovely state of Michoacan.

The capital city of Morelia is one of the most beautiful in all of Mexico, with many fine examples of colonial architecture that have been well preserved. Famous for its pink stone which is quarried around the region, the city adorns many of its most important buildings, both religious and secular, with the lovely stone.

In the heart of Morelia is the historic center of town. This area is perfect for strolling through beautiful parks and plazas peeking beyond elaborate wrought iron gates into private residences or admiring religious art on facades and interiors of countless churches and convents.

Easily accessible on foot, our group was led by a local doyenne, the spry and energetic 92-year-old native Senora Mason, throughout winding stone lanes and busy streets. Starting off mid-morning, we found that the pace of life in Morelia slows down to a wonderful level-plus we had plenty of time to walk a little, shop a little, eat a little and drink some. And of course, siesta.

The first stop was the famed Cathedral, which Frommer's dubbed "Mexico's most beautiful," built in a local Baroque style in the 17^th century. Most fascinating about this gorgeous example of Spanish architecture in Mexico was how simple it was inside. Many of the more indigenous areas of Mexico have iglesias and templos that are gaudily decorated, filled with bloody suffering statues that are a little hard on the stomach. Not the Cathedral in Morelia. Its superbly high curved ceilings are covered in pink-hued frescoes in a repetitive paisley pattern that inspires as it soothes.

Gaze ahead to the main altar and you see an ornately carved tabernacle containing the most holy element of the Catholic Mass; look behind and you'll see a magnificent pipe organ of more than 4,000 wooden pipes carved by artisans from the old world. The side chapels are beautifully serene as well.

With its graceful steeples and surprising, perfect Moorish style dome of blue and white tile, the Cathedral makes a particularly pretty sight at night when lit by spotlights, and moonlight too if you're lucky.

Stroll on down Avenida Madero and enjoy the first view of the aqueduct that dates from 1789 composed of 253 arches stretching 1,810 meters in length. Although the Spaniards built the aqueduct to promote work in times of drought, the structure today is more about beauty than function. The gateway to the best view of the aqueduct is the Tarascas Fountain, named for the indigenous people who lived in the area when the Spaniards arrived in 1522. The fountain, which depicts Tarascan princesses holding up a huge basket of local fruits, flows year-round.

Continue along the aqueduct bordering the Bosque, which used to be where the town ended, according to our guide. "Bosque" is Spanish for "forest," and this is a beautifully maintained yet wild looking tract of tall trees and inviting grassy areas that city founders were wise enough to set aside from private development, to form Morelia's own sort of Central Park.

All that walking can make you pretty hungry and there are plenty of places to eat in the historical district. Across the street from the Plaza Mayor, which was designed in 1543, is Los Portales, a colonnade fronting shops and restaurants where locals sit and relax with delicious food in varying price ranges, or sip rich caf‚ con lech‚ while watching the passing traffic.

After a little sustenance, shopping is a must. Casa de las Artesanias is not to be missed-a beautiful old church and convent compound that now houses a variety of shops and working studios of many artists from towns and villages throughout the state of Michoacan. Here's where you can find all the representative arts and crafts of the region in one place at very reasonable prices.

Not as showy is the labyrinthine shopping to be found around the corner at Mercado de los Enfantes where you can find everything from traditional clothing to jewelry, tee shirts and hats, as well as copper galore and carved wooden statues in an explosion of color and energy. Merchants expect shoppers to bargain with them so don't feel shy about offering to pay less than what they have priced an item.

After shopping till you drop, it's time to relax with cocktails and a view. Hop into a cab and for less than four dollars from the historical district you're whisked to a gorgeous hillside retreat overlooking Morelia about 15 minutes away, a luxury hotel and spa called Villa Montana. Enjoy a spectacular view of the city anchored by the twin spires of the Cathedral in the distance; if you time it right, from here you can watch the sunset and the city lights twinkle on while admiring the graceful Spanish architecture and charming gardens of the Villa. Room rates range from $170-370 US.

Morelia enjoys an active night life with numerous bars, clubs, cafes and restaurants staying open into the wee hours, and some until morning. With its large student population (there are at least six colleges and universities in the historical district alone) the youth of Morelia keep the city hopping well after dark.

While our group had the good fortune of staying at the ancestral home of Senora Mason rather than hotels, there were at least three hotels well-located in the historical district that made our list of beautiful places to stay.

Hotel de la Soledad was the first hotel built in the city, dating from the 18th century. Constructed in typical fashion around a lovely courtyard sporting a few well-preserved carriages from the horse-and-buggy days, the hotel contains a restaurant, museum and gallery as well. The hotel and its spacious rooms are stunning in historical detail and beautiful antiques, yet the cost is very reasonable. Rates range from just $75 US to $125 US.

The Hotel Virrey de Mendoza is an exceptional jewel on the Plaza de Armas just one block away from the Cathedral. The gracious lobby is a wonderful experience in itself with elegant antiques, curving arches, and a sonorous grand piano to provide tinkling melodies for cocktail hour. Rooms are good sized, modernized and comfortable, some with balconies overlooking the Plaza. Rooms start at about $170 US and go up to $350 US for the penthouse.

Almost directly across from the Cathedral is one of Mexico's famed boutique hotels, Los Juaninos. Originally built as a bishop's palace it then became a hospital before it was turned into a hotel in 1886. From the moment you step through the doors, the grand historical atmosphere is captivating. It's hard to miss the two fabulous arcades with huge 19th century stained glass panels. Almost every room has a view of the Cathedral and each room is uniquely decorated and luxuriously furnished. Rooms are from $150-280 US.

Next time Mexico beckons, consider a stay in aristocratic Morelia, a monument to Mexican love of history, art, and culture.