Sample Feature Article

For Nostika Magazine
Restaurant Review: Vagabond
Submitted June 24, 2006

Dine Around the World at Vagabond
By Nancy Casey,
translated by Marina Mason

You could take a trip around the world and dine at many fine restaurants along the way. But if your budget can’t handle that, instead you could simply hop over to South Park, San Diego’s newest happening area, and dine at Vagabond.

Cuisine from Morocco, Peru, the Caribbean, Spain and France are just a few of the countries brought together under one roof in a harmonious intimate setting on 30th Street near Juniper.

With a tiny lounge and corner bar area, and bistro-style tables cozily grouped closely together in the main dining area, the noise level can quickly get pretty raucous, but no matter—the décor and ambiance are enchanting distractions that set the tone for a marvelous experience from the moment you enter the arched front door.

As one of our dining companions, the former owner of a popular Pacific Beach eatery, said, “The ambiance alone here is enough to satisfy me.”

Antique suitcases are artfully displayed, an old altar rack for candles is cleverly disguised as a wine rack, and Mexican pressed-tin cut-out chandeliers and iron candleholders seem to be everywhere. Warm terra cotta and latte-colored walls are a canvas for thought-provoking inscriptions in Arabic, Chinese, French and Spanish, while voluminous arched ceilings and charming arched windows along the front of the restaurant bring the outdoors in.

Interior architectural columns are designed in such a way that diners gazing in one direction would feel certain they’re in Italy, in another direction you’re sure it’s Greece, or is it Morocco? At Vagabond, you truly feel as though you’re in all parts of the world.

It’s not just the cuisine that’s from around the world, but also the libations. We started with a Pisco sour, a popular Peruvian cocktail, in hopes of recreating our experience in Lima a few years before and Vagabond’s version came quite close. We could have chosen Caribbean mojitos, Belgian, Dutch or German beers, a healthy sampling of wines from Chile, Argentina, Spain, France or California, and much more, all at remarkably decent prices. Several wines by the glass were just $5 each.

For our starter we shared the Piatto Italiano, a sampling of two classic Italian appetizers, bruschetta teamed with a caprese salad. The bruschetta was enhanced with strips of prosciutto and fresh basil with toasted pine nuts for crunch, which should have been delicious but missed the mark in flavor. Perhaps the basil wasn’t so fresh that day and the prosciutto was bland. But the caprese was delicious.

For a full tasting experience we chose three entrees to sample: the fresh salmon, an Australian rack of lamb, and Coq au Vin;all were well-priced, under $20. The salmon was charbroiled exactly the right way, minus all that bad char, rendering it tender, sweet and moist. The menu described it as tequila and lime marinated but neither of those flavors came through. Served on a bed of very tasty garlic mashed potatoes, there was also a side of homemade salsa that simply didn’t work with the salmon flavor.

Rosemary spiced rack of lamb was a favorite from the first savory bite. It was perfectly cooked and an outstanding cut of meat resting beautifully in plenty of au jus that enhanced each succulent bite. Small ramekins of rice and flavorful black beans were served as side accompaniments.

The hands-down favorite was, unexpectedly, the Coq au Vin. If you think chicken is boring, you haven’t tried Vagabond’s. Served in a soup bowl-sized crock, the dish was distinguished by the tantalizing fragrance of marsala and rosemary perfectly married. A small whole cut up chicken, so tender it fell off the bone, swam in deeply flavored juices along with pearl onions and new potatoes for a most satisfying meal.

The desserts don’t seem to be housemade, but we weren’t disappointed in the very chocolatey Chocolate Bomb with its strong hazelnut flavor nicely tempered by real whipped cream. The lemon tart also struck a lovely balance between citrus and sweet.

The vigilant yet unobtrusive service was professional yet informal and even though it was crowded, we never felt rushed. On a Thursday night in summer a line of eager patrons stretched out the door so reservations are advised.

Vagabond has great promise to be hugely successful both as a neighborhood eatery and a culinary destination. Just leave your passport at home and travel on over to South Park to experience the world at Vagabond.

Vagabond is located at 2310 30th Street, (619) 255-1035; open for lunch and dinner. Reservations and info www.vagabondkitchen.com.